Hiking (mountain trail, in places narrow and exposed)
Alpine route (equipped or very exposed section, snow field, blocks)
R132
Refuge de Furfande » Ceillac
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6h40 |
17.8 km
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1046 m
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1693 m
This stage leaving from the Furfande hut passes entirely along the “Tour du Queyras” trail at the heart of the Queyras regional nature park. After an abrupt descent to the Guil valley, which it crosses at the Bramousse bridge, it crosses larch woods and pastureland to reach the Bramousse pass before heading down to Ceillac, the stage destination.
From the Furfande hut, the GR® 58 starts off on a downhill course in a south-easterly direction to reach a little pass. Next, head down along a rocky and sometimes steep path in hairpin bends below the Croseras crest. Leave the path coming from the Furfande chalets to the right and then on the left the Queyron chalets to arrive above the hamlet of Chatelard after a major bend towards the east. Continue along a stone-paved path and cross the Choulières stream to reach the hamlet of Escoyères (1,532m). Keep heading downhill along the little road and cross the hamlet of Esponces. You will reach departmental road D 902, which must be followed downhill for 350m (be careful) before crossing the bridge over the Guil to the left. Climb up through the forest on the right-hand trail to reach a little road on arriving at the hamlet of Bramousse (1,410m). At the top of the hamlet, just after the chapel, turn to the west to reach a path and climb up from the hollow created by the Bramousse stream on the left bank on the outskirts of the forest. Cross to the other bank and, alternating between the trail and several short cuts, walk to the Bramousse chalets and then head up to the pastureland, once again on the left-hand bank. At the entry to the forest, continue to border the stream, ignoring the traces of forestry activity on either side, and climb to a meadow and then after a few bends a pasture zone scattered with larch trees, thus reacing the Bramousse pass (2,251m). Descend to the south on the side of a large hollow crossed by a ski lift. At the bottom of the lift, you will reach the highest station of the Cheynet cable car and then take a trail to the west leading into the forest. The descent in hairpin bends then veers to the south to reach the Sainte-Cécile church after having passed the hamlet of Queyras. Follow the road to the east to reach the village of Ceillac (1,639m). (Marc Buisson, CDRP 05)
Natural and cultural heritage
Thanks to the GR® 58, this stage joins the North and South sides of the Guil and crosses several muandos, summer habitats for the period between Easter and Christmas, typical of the Queyras region. Under the crest of Croseras, the trail leaves the high-altitude pastures and heads to the Lauze pass, named after the local black slate, a primary material used in the traditional rooftops in high mountain areas (together with larch shingles used for the walls). Between the tumbling streams, which are a direct source of water for the Guil, and the coniferous forests, the Escoyères hamlets gleam in the sun, whose brilliance and constant presence in this area is a well-known fact. An old Roman road, sign of the Queyras occupation, explains the construction of these high-altitude villages. Before becoming the summer chalets of the Guillestrois people, they were used as strategic lookout posts. One chapel follows another, like a materialisation of saving faith against natural and human hostilities: Ste Madeleine is built in Roman stone covered by the inscriptions so characteristic of the people of the “Quadriates” (the Queyras region). After crossing the Guil, a stream which has wrecked havoc with its many floods (e.g. in 1957 and 2001) but which is also a “playground” for countless sport enthusiasts (rafting, kayaking, hydrospeed), the trail heads up to the main town of Bramousse, which demonstrates the typical spatial organisation of the Alps. It is not far from the valley with a simple but nevertheless important religious heritage (chapels and wayside shrines), and further up, the summer chalets with their chapel are joined to the rest by a ski slope. Further down, the village of Ceillac appears where the Mélézet and Cristillan valleys meet. The splendid church of Ste Cécile welcomes the trail to the muando of Clapière villages, with its Lombard-Romanesque steeple. This XIXth century historical monument, listed since 1972, is an example of the architecture specific to this mountain market town. A tour of the village reveals the particularity of the Ceillac habitat, where the L-shaped houses have numerous facades covered in sundials to keep the time. Several mills and bread or charcoal ovens are signs of the human activities practiced alongside pastoralism. One farm has even been classified as an historical monument: the Maison Chabrand dating back to the XVIIth century. These pages of history, from Roman times until today, can be felt in the life of Ceillac. The local patois was only replaced by French in 1931, and the traditional costume with the women’s linen cap decorated by a ruche, an embroidered bandeau folded on the forehead, only stopped being worn recently. On the other hand, the quadrille of Ceillac and the piqua (“polka piqué” folk dance), typical of the village, are brought back to life from time to time for patronal feasts. And the crousetons,manuis - hand-made pasta – and Ceillac blue (cow’s cheese) are still enjoyed as savoury dishes. This stage of the Sundials route thus marries the heritage of past generations with daily life, tourism and traditional agriculture. (Sara Zeidler, Gilles Chappaz, Grande Traversée des Alpes)
Favourites, criticisms ? Make your personal comments on this stage. For more general notes please use the comments section of the page Over to the Via Alpinists.
Houdayer Alain - 2022-09-07
Gite "Les Balladins"parfait.
Berta - 2018-08-17
Ceillac ist ein hübscher Ort mit Supermarkt, Bankomat, Sportgeschäft, Bäckerei und Restaurants. Wir haben im Gite Les Baladines geschlafen. Schöner Garten mit Liegstühle zum realaxen, schöne, saubere Zimmer und gutes Essen. 4Bettzimmer mit Halbpension f 41€ pro Person
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Ceillac is a nice place with a supermarket, ATM, sports shop, bakery and restaurants. We slept at Gite Les Baladines. Beautiful garden with beach chairs for realaxen, nice, clean rooms and good food. 4bed rooms with half board f 41 € per person
frankie9594 - 2017-10-14
Monaco- Trieste
After reading Thierry's comments, decided to skip Refuge Furfande, and go towards Briancon. To do this take the trail by Refuge Furfande to Arvieux or continue to Brunissard.
In Arvieux, there is a restaureant called La Casse Deserte, that has spare rooms. If you follow the road from Arvieux, you can reach la Chalp, which has plenty of lodgings, however they are expensive.
The best bet, is to take the trail to Brunissard, follow the GR5 and reach "Camping De L'Izoard." It is possible to reach the camping platz in one day (I did it), however be prepared for a long day.
This alternative route will take you to Briancon, as well as one of the best views of the hike, leaving Briancon. You can catch up with the Via Alpina in Nevache (R126).
Any questions, message me through this Via Alpina Page: https://www.facebook.com/groups/859624434185739/?ref=bookmarks
Coming down from Furfande (where we were sent away), past the Parking Lot, there is a short-cut foot-path straight down, avoiding the asphalted road. Not recommended to pass with your donkey or during rain.
The Gite d'Etape Le Riou Vert in Bramousse is good. Nice garden, good food.
Michel s - 2016-06-14
toujours peu accueillant à Furfande. le moins sympa des gîtes depuis Nice. Comme l'écrivait Thierry M en 2013 she does'nt like hikers but their money
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always unwelcoming to Furfande. the least friendly of houses from Nice. In the words of Thierry M in 2013 she does'nt like hikers Their purpose money
A noter, pour nuancer les commentaires précédents, que le refuge de Furfande a été intégralement rénové en 2014 (il est tout neuf), ce qui a du permettre d'améliorer la qualité de service. Lors de notre passage suite à sa rénovation, nous n'avons pas été déçus, ni pas le repas, ni par la vue de ces alpages magnifiques classés.
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Note to qualify the previous comments that the refuge of Furfande was fully renovated in 2014 (it is new), which help improve the quality of service. When we visited after its renovation, we were not disappointed or not the meal, nor by the sight of these magnificent pastures classified.
From Ceillac it is possible to stay on the GR5 and go through the Queyras regional park which is afterward was the option I should have followed radther than staying
on the via Alpina.
The trail to refuge de Furfande is great but from there it should catch up the GR5 and not go down to Guillestre/Mont Dauphin.
Thought i could handle the very steep negative way down to check out Mont dauphin and come back up to refuge de furfande the day after but
did not do it..not enough endorphine yet. Avoid going to Mont Dauphin unless you want to end your trip there.
GR5 goes through the Queyras regional park and reaches Briancon afterwards
@ refuge de Furfande Laure the owner is little bit rough (don't like the tourists/hikers but like to get their money...)
Rosa the friendly italian staff that works there in June 2013 for her will make your stay much nicer.
Great location @ refuge Furfande but does not worth staying/stopping until a new owner gets in place.
Jean-Louis GIRAUD - 2013-05-19
Accueil pas vraiment top au refuge de FURFANDE. Repas de mème niveau qui a laissé sur leur faim les nombreux randonneurs présents ce soir là. On attendait tous la suite aprés le potage et le petit morceau de tarte à la brandade !
C'est et ce sera le seul refuge sur tout l'itinéraire de la Via Alpina ou l'on refusera de recharger un telephone portable...Dommage de terminer ainsi une belle étape. A noter l'existence de plusieurs gites dans les environs :
-Gite Les Escoyères à 1h30 / 2 heures du refuge de Furfande
-Gite Le Riou Vert à Bramousse ...à 3 heures.
Tel : 04 92 46 72 45
Email : christian-et-sy.garcin@wanadoo.fr
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Home not really top of the shelter FURFANDE. Meme level of meal that left on their hunger many hikers present that night. We all expected result after the soup and the small piece of pie brandade! This is and will be the only refuge on the entire route of the Via Alpina and we will refuse to recharge a cell phone ... Damage to finish and a beautiful stage. Note that there are several cottages in the area: The -Gîte Escoyères 1:30 / 2:00 refuge Furfande -Gîte Le Riou Vert Bramousse ... 3 hours. Tel: 04 92 46 72 45 Email: christian-et-sy.garcin@wanadoo.fr
Favourites, criticisms ? Make your personal comments on this stage. For more general notes please use the comments section of the page Over to the Via Alpinists.