Hiking (mountain trail, in places narrow and exposed)
Alpine route (equipped or very exposed section, snow field, blocks)
R123
Refuge de La Leisse » Termignon-la-Vanoise
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5h15 |
20 km
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369 m
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1543 m
On leaving the Leisse hut at the heart of the Vanoise national park, this stage takes the GR® 55 and then the GR® 5 trail. It crosses several historical sites (bridges, chapels, etc.), the Entre-Deux-Eaux hut and the the Plan-du-Lac national park gate hut. Next, it heads down to Termignon, the stage destination, having cut across some hairpin bends and then taking a paved trail.
A little after the Leisse mountain hut, the GR® 55 passes on the left bank of the Leisse torrent and goes down skirting the Leisse torrent until the Croé-Vie bridge (2099 metres). At the Croé-Vie bridge, take the broad path which goes to the Entre deux Eaux mountain hut. Leave the mountain hut on your left and go down the same broad path until the Renaudière bridge, which will allow you to cross the Rocheure torrent. Continue opposite the bridge along the GR® 5 path which climbs up to the Saint-Barthélémy chapel (Saint Bartholomew). Cross the sheep-track and follow the path until the Plan du Lac mountain hut (Lake’s Plane). From the mountain hut, continue towards the lake and reach the Bellecombe parking. Leave the GR® 5 on your left and walk straight on towards the Sainte-Marguerite chapel (Saint Margaret). The path crosses several hairpin bends of the D126 road till the Saint-Antoine oratory (Saint Anthony). Follow the path till another oratory and then take the path on your right. Cross the Chavière brook and continue your descent till you reach the Pont du Villard valley. Follow the road for 600 metres and turn right to cross the Châtlard bridge. After the bridge, take the path on your left which follows the torrent at a distance on its right bank, pass by the Notre Dame des Prés chapel (Our Lady of the Meadows) and come out onto the RN6 at the entrance of Termignon. (Michèle Looten, Jean-Luc Galland, CDRP 73)
Natural and cultural heritage
After walking into the little Leisse valley, the trail circumvents the landslide at the Pointes de Pierre Brune (3,196m) under the authority of the southern faces of the Grande Casse and the Pointe Mathews (3,783 m). You will then arrive at the Croé-Vie bridge, point of convergence for the Vanoise pass. This bridge was frequently used by traders on the beaufort cheese and salt route (trail joining Tarentaise area, the Maurienne valley and Italy) but also by pilgrims on their way to Rome or by pedlars. Moreover, this bridge of great heritage value (stone and mortar, arch support) also marks the boundary between the wild and arid zone of extensive cattle pastureland (tarine cows) of the Leisse valley and the more pleasant, gentle Entre-Deux-Eaux landscape, which is used for sheep grazing. This pastoralism, characterised by its private family farming system, is also used far into the Rocheure valley. It has not made it possible to pool dairy production to make the bulky beaufort cheese, but has fostered production of the famous Termignon blue, a veined cheese now only manufactured by three producers. There is a remarkable view from the Entre-Deux-Eaux hamlet over the Dômes de la Vanoise range and the Dent Parrachée peak, which form part of one of the main ice sheets in the Western Alps. Furthermore, a hydroelectric channel also leaves from the pondage, joining the Plan d’Amont and Plan d’Aval dams above Aussois. The Plan-du-Lac hut, which in spite of its traditional appearance is a recent construction, therefore has the special feature of functioning on electricity. Close to the lake, there is a plateau of short grassland and rocky zones suitable for the rock ptarmigan, which makes it a national monitoring site for this species. Under the Vanoise glaciers, the Doron gorges have not been developed owing to the repeated floods and also so as to leave a wild area that today accommodates a couple of bearded vultures. It also compensates for the invasion of the central zone of the Park by a road and electricity line (spiralled in order to prevent collisions with birds). Furthermore, on the way down from Entre-Deux-Eaux to Termignon, the recently restored chapels of St Pierre, St Barthélémy and Ste Marguerite, the typical hamlet of La Chavière or the magnificent cellular dolomite bell-towers near the shrine of St Antoine add not insignificant interest to the trail, as does the paved trail close to the Traverstaz or the observation of the Dent Parrachée (3,639m), a summit that more than stands out in the countryside and which as been climbed many times by local guide Josué Damevin. Termignon, host to the “Maison de la Vanoise” exhibition centre and the “Pleureuse”, a monument dedicated to the dead of the Great War, is a concentrated market town, where the buildings are adapted to the natural restrictions and the layout of the wide primary distributor reflects the touristic history of the Napoleonic era. (Nicolas Aubertin, Gilles Chappaz, Grande Traversée des Alpes)
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Gigi - 2020-09-05
REFUGE D'ENTRE DEUX EAUX/ peu habitué à publier des commentaires, je vous mets en garde concernant l'accueil dur, voir désagréable des gardiens.
Attitude suffisante qui prend les randonneurs de haut. Pour le reste, nourriture bonne et propreté impeccable
Berta - 2018-08-02
Im Refuge de Plan du Lac bekannten wir keinen Platz. Eine sehr gute und schöne Alternative ist wenn man bis zum Parkplatz Bellecombe absteigt und dann ca.40 min zum Refugio du Lac Blanc (Tel. 0682381198, www.refugedulacblanc-vanoise.com) geht, ist gut beschildert. Es ist kaum ein Umweg, da man nächsten Tag von dort absteigen kann und wieder auf die Via Alpina trifft. Wir waren alleine im Lager und man kann zum See gehen und dort schwimmen, das Wasser war nicht kalt!!!! Lager mit Halbpension 43€
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We have no place in the Refuge de Plan du Lac. A very good and nice alternative is if you go down to the parking Bellecombe and then about 40 minutes to Refugio du Lac Blanc (Tel 0682381198, www.refugedulacblanc-vanoise.com), is well signposted. It is hardly a detour, because you can get off the next day from there and meet again on the Via Alpina. We were alone in the camp and you can go to the lake and swim, the water was not cold !!!! Camp with half board 43 €
Trail is east to follow. Plenty of rocks between "Refuge d'Entre Deux Eaux" and "Refuge de la Leisse" be careful of steep drop offs and water coming down the mountain, blocking the trail. "Refuge de la Leisse" was a very welcoming place, maybe the better of the other two refuges.
Refuge Entre Deaux Eaux is proudly owned by the same family for over 100 years.
See the pictorial boards inside showing the history.
Very welcome atmosphere by the elderly gardiennes, well recommended!
Stay an extra day and go up the breath-taking beautiful Col de Vanoise (view on the nearby glacier) as a days outing.
Alpinisten - 2015-08-16
Das Refuge d´Entre Deux -Eaux ist der perfekte Zielort für diese wunderschöne Etappe, Ref. du Plan du Lac ist aber auch noch zu schaffen.
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The Refuge d'Entre Deux -Eaux is the perfect destination for this beautiful stage, Ref du Plan. Du Lac is also to create more.
tof - 2015-02-11
Trieste-Monaco le 25/09/14
Belle journée dans un vallon sauvage. Etape longue. Refuge entre 2 eaux fermé, refuge du plan du lac ouvert.
Arrivé à Termignon, camping "les Mélézes" OUVERT ! Camping le moins cher de ma traversée. Super accueil, la gestionnaire m'a déposé au supermarché (2kms) car à Termignon pas grand chose d'ouvert pour le ravitaillement.
camping: 04 79 20 41 51
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Trieste-Monaco on 09/25/14 Beautiful day in a wild valley. Long Step. Refuge from 2 closed waters, the open plan refuge lake. Arrived at Termignon, camping "larches" OPEN! Camping cheapest of my journey. Super welcome, manager dropped me at the supermarket (2kms) because Termignon no big thing open for refueling. Camping: 04 79 20 41 51
Refuge de la Leisse his very well located and the actual keeper Celine is worth knowing.
Probably less tourists and still a mounatin spirit at refuge de la Leisse than the 2 others (plan du lac, entre 2 eaux on the via alpina) or refuge du col de la Vanoise (huge ugly refuge built for the masses) if coming from Pralognan
Favourites, criticisms ? Make your personal comments on this stage. For more general notes please use the comments section of the page Over to the Via Alpinists.