Hiking (mountain trail, in places narrow and exposed)
Alpine route (equipped or very exposed section, snow field, blocks)
R14
Trenta » Dom v Tamarju
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6h45 |
14 km
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1188 m
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709 m
This stage leads through the Trenta valley and the source of the Soča river. There is a view of the Trenta valley during the climb to Vršič, the highest pass in Slovenia. Cross the pass and climb up to Sleme, which is strewn with small lakes and opens up a spectacular view of the Tamar valley below, and the towering walls of Jalovec and Mojstrovka. This is one of the most scenic stages.
From in front of the TNP information centre, walk along the main road up the Trenta valley to the Vršič pass. After the first hairpin bend, there is a long climb past a small resting area. Take heed of the traffic on the road, which is usually quite heavy. At the top of the hill you will reach Mali Vršič (700 m), then climb down towards the Soča river. Walk past the campsite to the small settlement of Pri cerkvi where you will find the Church of Lavretanske Matere Božje (the Virgin Mary of Loreto), and which was once the centre of Trenta. 35 minutes. Continue walking along the road and after 10 minutes a direction arrow shows the way to the Alpinum Juliana arboretum. After viewing the arboretum, continue walking along the road, with the Soča river to your right, until you reach a crossroads half way up the hill. Take the path leading down to the suspension bridge and the Kugy monument. The path to the right leads to the magnificent Mlinarice trough, whilst the path to the left leads up to the monument. 15 minutes. There is a magnificent view of the surroundings from the monument to the renowned botanist and mountaineer. From the monument, follow the road from Vršič and walk down past the crossroads where a road branches off to the right. A few metres ahead, beyond the bridge, walk off the tarmac road and take the shaded path following the Soča river up to Koča pri izviru Soče. 30 minutes. From the hut, turn northeast. Walk along the relatively level terrain until you reach the steep, eastern slopes of Maklena peč (1,298 m) and the Limarica stream. Continue walking up the valley. The terrain becomes increasingly steep and the path begins climbing in stages through the forest and across small clearings. Walk along the old Vršič road and after a few metres, at the bend in the road, go straight to the Velika planina meadow (1,495 m). 1h. Cross the plain to reach the road and the last part of the climb up to Tičarjec dom na Vršiču (1,620 m), which lies next to the Vršič pass to the right. 1h. Return onto the road and follow it down to the Gorenjska side of the pass. After about 5 minutes, a path branches off to the left towards Vratca and Slemenova Špica, which is your goal. Climb through a series of bends to the Vratca pass (1,807 m), where there is a view of the Tamar valley. 30 minutes. From the pass, make a short descent and bypass the trough to the right. Then turn west and walk across an undulating plateau high above the valley of the Mala Pišnica stream. You will reach a pass where a path branches off towards Slemenova Špica. 30 minutes. Even though Via Alpina does not ascend this peak, we recommend a visit! This is one of the most beautiful parts of the Slovene Alps and offers a breathtaking view. Only the descent to the Tamar valley now remains. From the grassy pass, climb down to the steep and gravelly slope under the northern rock face of Velika Mojstrovka, where the terrain levels out somewhat. Then descend to the east into a very deep and dark ravine, where snow may still be found late in the Summer. Walk along the ravine until you reach the Črna voda waterfall. Then turn north through the forest until you reach Dom v Tamarju (1,108 m). 2h 15 min. This wonderful stage takes 6h 45 minutes.
Source: Dobnik, Jože; (1998). Slovenska planinska pot. Planinski vodnik. Ljubljana: Založba PZS. Mihelič, Tine; (1998). Julijske Alpe. Planinski vodnik. Ljubljana: Založba PZS. Atlas Slovenije. (1996). 3. izpopolnjena in razširjena izdaja. Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga in Geodetski zavod Slovenije (GZS). Julijske Alpe - vzhodni del. (2003). 1:50.000. GZS. Ljubljana: Planinska založba PZS. Gorenjska. (1998). Izletniška karta. 1:50.000. Ljubljana: GZS. (Peter Šilak)
Natural and cultural heritage
Trenta is a valley in the upper course of the Soča River, carved out of the limestone rock of the Julian Alps by rivers and reshaped by glaciers. Nowhere else in Slovenia can one find mountain peaks towering so high above the valley floor and river bed. Natural barriers, the remoteness of the area and poor road connections in the past (the road through Vršič was only built in 1916 and the road along the Soča in 1906) resulted in the area's unique demographic and economic likeness. The valley was only revived in the 16th century with the mining of iron ore. After two very modest centuries, ironworking finally collapsed, further restricting already limited opportunities. Sheepherding, woodcutting, poaching and cultivation (mainly potatoes and cabbage) provided a meagre income to the valley's inhabitants. New opportunities were provided by mountain climbing and tourism. The first alpine post at Na Logu was built in 1881 and many of the native inhabitants became excellent mountain guides. Julius Kugy (1858 – 1944) played a central role in the exploration of the Julian Alps in his quest to find the mysterious blossom Scabiosa trenta. A burning desire drove him to climb several peaks. He describes his exploits in a book, which remains an immortal monument to his Trenta and Julian guides. The Triglav National Park information centre and the Trenta Museum are in Na Logu. The Alpinum Juliana is a 2,570-m2 Alpine botanical garden. It was created in 1926 and has over 1,000 species of flora from the Julian Alps, the Karawanken and the Kamnik-Savinja Alps, as well as from the central Alps, the Pyrenees, the Apennines and the Caucasus. Alpinum Juliana is administered by the Museum of Natural History and came under official protection as a natural wonder of great significance to natural science in 1951. The highest point of the Vršič road, which connects the Sava and Soča valley, is at the Vršič Pass (1,611 m). The road was built for the purpose of getting supplies to the Isonzo Front by the Austrian army, using more than 10,000 Russian prisoners of war. Many of the prisoners (about 2,000) died as a result of inhuman conditions and disease, and 100 were killed by an avalanche in March 1916. The survivors built an Orthodox chapel and a stone pyramid - an ossuary containing the remains of their colleagues - to honour their dead comrades. (Mimi Urbanc)
Other long-distance trails and alternative routes
Jalovec (2,645m). Variation: From Dom na Tamarju, climb up to Kotovo sedlo pass then continue to the summit of Jalovec, which towers over the Trenta and Tamar valleys (5-6h). Descend to Zavetišče pod Špičkom (2h) and continue to the Koča pri izviru Soče hut (4h30'). A two-day tour, very difficult, but well-secured trail. A recommended tour, but for experienced hikers only.
Useful topographic maps
Julijske Alpe, vzhodni del ~ Planinska zveza Slovenije (1 : 50 000)
Gorenjska ~ Geodetski zavod Slovenije (1 : 50 000)
Triglav ~ Planinska zveza Slovenije (1 : 25 000)
Useful guidebooks
Slovenska planinska pot ~ Planinska zveza Slovenije (ISBN 961-6156-11-x)
Vodnik po Julijskih Alpah ~ Planinska zveza Slovenije (ISBN 961-6156-08-x)
Vodnik po planinskih postojankah v Sloveniji ~ Planinska zveza Slovenije (ISBN 961-6156-10-1)
Favourites, criticisms ? Make your personal comments on this stage. For more general notes please use the comments section of the page Over to the Via Alpinists.
flautix - 2023-08-21
VORSICHT!! Etwa 2km vor dem Ziel (Tamarhaus) steigt man auf einer Strecke von 200-300m in einem Bachbett steil ab, was vor allem bei Regen und Nässe wirklich mühsam und gefährlich ist. Die Markierungen sind gut zu erkennen, aber ein Weg existiert offensichtlich schon lange nicht mehr und die letzten Reste wurden mit den Unwettern dieses Jahr endgültig fortgewaschen.
Im Tamarhaus waren wir die einzigen Übernachtungsgäste und wurden bestens versorgt. Große Portionen! Unbedingt die Struggli zum Nachtisch probieren!
flautix - 2023-08-21
Eine sehr schöne aber unerwartet lange Etappe (wir haben 9:30 Stunden mit Pausen benötigt): Vom Biobauernhof hinter Trenta kommend muss man nicht nach Trenta zurück, sondern überquert gleich die Soca auf der ersten Brücke und folgt dann auf der anderen Seite dem Wanderweg flussaufwärts, der wieder auf den Track zurückführt. Der Abstecher zur Socaquelle ist lohnend, benötigt aber viel Zeit, da man auf dem letzten Stück an dem kleinen Klettersteig (Stöcke klein machen und an den Rucksack! Man braucht beide Hände am Seil am letzten Stück vor der Quelle!) mit zahllosen Familien mit Kind und Kegel im Stau steht!
I also highly preferred the hut right below the peak (additional 15m of walking from trail). Great food, very clean, acceptable beer prices (3,70€ per 0,5l) and good sleeping conditions.
Tap water is labeled as not-drinkable but is ok to drink (according to waitress and my own experience).
Carsten - 2022-01-10
Water: on ascent: repeatedly creeks/river until just before reaching the road near the pass; none on the descent until about 1km from the end. Faucet with trough across meadow to West of hut.
Camping opportunities during ascent and at end.
Warning: on 7 July 2021, gorge c.1 km from end was covered by 3-5m thick snow/icefield. Sun does not reach it before around noon. Was covered with some rocks and dirt that facilitated a steep descent for c.200m to exit the snowfield on the opposite side (where snow cover receded earlier).
I found this section uninteresting, and in parts quite crowded. There seems to be an alternative trail from the pass down to the end of R14 that would avoid the gorge (and the steep and slippery descent into the gorge).
First time I encounter mosquitoes (and also horseflies). Only here and in the next few stages. (I never needed mosquito repellent.)
Mackedr - 2019-09-06
Walking west to east. Below. The waterfall, on your left, is a wall of large rocks, With a good path on the right of it. Follow that path. At about 1300 m, with a cliff in front of you, take the path on your left, which is soon marked with circles. If. You get into difficult ground (which I did), you have gone too high, so go back. It is easier to see the right route looking back. Enjoy your walk.
POPEYE GG - 2018-06-13
19 juin 2017
Dernière étape 100% slovène, et où on retrouve des torrents.
On quitte ici le Triglav, après un superbe panorama à Vrsic (accessible en voiture, d'où beaucoup de touristes et de cyclo-sportifs).
En arrivant en fin de la première montée à 900m d'altitude, au refuge Koca pri Izviru Koce, j'ai malheureusement raté la source de la Izvir pourtant toute proche.
L'arrivée sur le refuge Dom V Tamarju se fait par un chemin chaotique.
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June 19, 2017 Last stage 100% Slovenian, and where we find torrents. We leave here the Triglav, after a superb panorama to Vrsic (accessible by car, from where many tourists and cyclo-sportsmen). Arriving at the end of the first climb at 900m above sea level, at the Koca Prii Izviru Koce refuge, I unfortunately missed the source of the nearby Izvir. The arrival on the Dom V Tamarju refuge is done by a chaotic way.
A beautiful route from Vršič to Tamar. If you stay on the main hiking trail (probably easier when you come from Tamar like me) it's an easy going hike with beautiful views. Jeej! The grocery store in Trenta is open until 9. It's small, but good enough.
Jean-Pierre G. - 2015-07-28
Warning : According to the indications on the hiking maps, the passage at the end of the stage, just before the Črna voda waterfall, should be secured with cables. Well it isn’t. On the contrary, due to a landslide approximately 300 meters of the trail have been washed down and away. One is forced to climb through very steep and slipper terrain. The crossing is difficult and not without danger, especially with a heavy pack and after seven hiking-hours. The alternative: Take the path over the Grlo-peak (fork 300 meters before the ascent to Slemenova spica) and reach Dom v. Tamariu from the East.
Elisabeth - 2012-11-30
Il y a un camping très sympa en aval de Trenta. Le Sotcha trail recommandé par Robert est très agréable. Entre Sleme et Tamar, le passage difficile se dégrade de plus en plus : une échelle serait bienvenue ! C'est la seule des 50 étapes que j'ai faites dont le temps de marche est exact.
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There is a very nice camping downstream Trenta. The trail Sotcha recommended Robert is very nice. Sleme between Tamar and the difficult transition degrades more: a scale would be welcome! This is the only 50 steps I made whose running time is right.
At Isuro Soce and at the pass (Vrsic) there is accommodation. Check at the info-center at Trenta first!
Just before Isuro Soce do not miss the sudden turn right at about 100 meters before this place. It is a small path between to stone walls. Look for the circled track sign. (Use the track that you can download here and put it on your GPS, it is very accurate!)
The part between Sleme to Tamar is 1 hour shorter then mentioned on this guide: 75 minutes at the most! That makes only 5h45 for the entire stage of today. But beware, today is the highest climb of the entire Slovenian part. Now that you gained one hour time, spend it to climb the Slemenova Spica. Spectacular view from there, well recommended! From Sleme to Tamar there is a difficult passage going down a narrow gorge.
I noticed no problems on the trail in September 2011!
Alpinisten - 2011-09-07
Das letzte Stück des Abstieges in Richtung Dom v Tamarju war im August 2011 recht beschädigt wegen starker Regenfälle.Unbedingt aufpassen! Leider sind die Hüttenwirte auf Dom v Tamarju sehr unfreundlich, dabei ist es eigentlich eine schöne Hütte...
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The last bit of the descent towards Dom v Tamarju was quite damaged in August 2011 to watch out for strong Regenfälle.Unbedingt! Unfortunately, the refuge staff on Dom v Tamarju are very rude, like it's actually a lovely cottage ...
robert - 2011-07-11
Ne pas suivre le descriptif au début de l'étape mais rejoindre le Soca Trail : sentier qui remonte la rive droite de la Soca et permet d'éviter la route goudronnée . Une passerelle en face du centre d'information de Trenta ou une autre 300m en aval y mène.
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Do not follow the description at the beginning of the stage but join the Soca Trail trail that goes up the right bank of the Soca and avoids the paved road. A walkway in front of the information center Trenta or another 300m downstream towards it.
vohi - 2010-08-29
Aktuelle Preise (Aug. 2010) Trenta (nicht Campingplatz, sondern erste darauffolgende Alpenvereins-Zimmerherberge): Übernachtung + Frühstück 16 Euro
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Current prices (Aug. 2010) Trenta (no camping, but first subsequent Alpine Club room hostel): accommodation and breakfast Euro 16
vohi - 2010-08-29
Vorsicht, nicht den falschen Weg (mit gleichem Symbol) ohne Seil in Richtung Jalovec gehen.. Dort folgt ein kräfteraubender Geröllfeldaufstieg und anschließend die einzige Möglichkeit, über einen Klettersteig weiterzukommen..(oder das Geröllfeld wieder herunter zu kletter..sehr gefährlich!)
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Caution, do not go the wrong way (with the same symbol) without rope toward Jalovec .. There, a power consuming scree climb and then the only way to make progress on a climbing .. follows (or scree to climb back down .. very dangerous!)
Favourites, criticisms ? Make your personal comments on this stage. For more general notes please use the comments section of the page Over to the Via Alpinists.